Lé Thio Noots
Chemillé-en-Anjou, Loire
A native of Anjou, Romain Verger has been farming the region in one manner or another his entire life. First schooling in plant nursery, he moved into various other forms of agriculture while along the way meeting a number of outsiders in the wine world working without the use of chemicals in their vines. Intrigued by their philosophies and their wines he began helping them prune, then bit by bit he ended up working with them full time. His journey has brought him to work alongside some of the most iconically uncompromising winemakers in the region including Jérôme Saurigny, Patrick Desplats and Didier Chaffardon to name but a few. His wife Lucie, once a psychologist, now practises equine therapy and assists with the horse work in their fields. Together they have two small children, as well as a real menagerie of animals including sheep, ducks and a mule that they keep for both pleasure and purpose. Spending just an afternoon with them we got the sense these are people truly at one with their surroundings.
Only beginning their domaine in 2018, they are now the custodians of 3ha of vines in and around Faye D’Anjou. With a mix of red and white varieties including a parcel of untreated Sauvignon Blanc and an 80 year old Cabernet Franc vineyard, the pair work the vines in a sensitive way, preferring herbal teas and tisanes to traditional treatments. Smartly utilising his knowledge of plantlife, Romain has sown different botanicals and vegetables between the rows known for their properties in improving soil health.
Work in the cellar is intuitive. All the grapes are processed by hand, while macerations are delicate and range from several days up to 8 months. Pressing is done slowly in an old vertical press with élevage mostly in barrique for as much or as little time as needed.
The wines themselves are gentle and expressive, with a depth and energy that really do make one reminisce on those of Romain’s mentors. At the same time they have a style totally of their own. Going to the vineyards and seeing the beauty in person you have to say these wines truly carry the energy of the place.
